For Caroline Zimbalist, Bioplastics are more than just a trend, they are a versatile canvas for art. Since discovering biomaterials in college, Zimbalist has treated them as medium and message, molding them into jewelry, sculpture and clothing. Guided by a love of unexpected results and innovation, Zimbalist leans into Bioplastics and fantasy with FW25 collection.

When did you first start learning about and working with biomaterials?
2018, senior year at Parsons.

What first inspired you to turn biomaterials into sculptural designs?
With a classical background, I had turned to more Avant Garde art/design. It seemed inevitable that I would find and work with something unusual. Bioplastics have more artistic versatility than synthetic material. I liked the freedom that was offered.

How is the FW25 collection different from what you have done with previous collections?
Really integrating bio embellishments - replacing traditional buttons and beads - onto RTW. Also creating prints and motifs with bioplastic rather than just fluid color palettes.

What challenges, if any, does mixing innovative textures and materials with traditional garments bring?Making the correct mixture ratios and correct amount of biomaterial to complement and blend with a traditional textile. If it's too heavy, it will alter the desired shape/fit. If it’s not mixed in the right ratios, it might prove too fragile to withstand movement.

Out of the pieces you have designed with bioplastics, which one did you most enjoy creating?
Chappell Roan’s Garden of Eden dress.

Color and texture are a big part of what makes your work so special. Why do you think these elements are such an integral part of your art?
The emotion and feeling that colors bring to me and, I imagine, others. I like to think of some of my colors and textures bringing a little joy to the viewer-it's a strong motivation for me. It’s also a way for me to express the fantasy world that is often in my thoughts.

What role do “accidents” or unexpected results play in your creative process?
Some accidents have become part of my vehicle. E.G. Pieces breaking off my larger sculptures became my jewelry line. Also, when I laid the bioplastic flat to dry, my first apartment had a slanted floor which accidentally made the material run. This helped me develop one of my techniques.

What differences in your process do you notice when creating sculptural art pieces versus wearable pieces?
It’s a big difference. The mixtures for costumes and sculptures diverge. Consideration for the durability of a garment that might endure different temperatures, or movement is still an ongoing challenge.

In what ways do you hope your work influences the fashion industry’s relationship with sustainable materials?
I hope to add to the conversation. The more I can present biomaterials as couture or art - perhaps the sustainable aspect of their composition gets more notice and consideration from people who can really move the needle.

A lot of your work is inspired by the natural world. Has there been a time where you found inspiration in an unexpected way?
The color and plating at some restaurants often take me by surprise. I am very inspired by the colors, textures, and artistic way food can be presented.

If you could create a material out of anything in the world, what would it be?
Sometimes I have a cut or blister, and I take a small piece from my aloe plants and apply to my tiny wound. Then I imagine such natural material on a larger scale.

Creating a substance mixed from a combination of plants, applied to an infected wound, binding the opening and dissolving over days as it healed the infection.

Such things exist but seem to be fading as pharma ascends.

What excites you most about the future of bioplastics in fashion?
Customization and versatility, imperfect quality, and sustainable message.

Interview by Sabine Obermoller, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Daniel López, Art Director, PhotoBook Magazine
Photo Credits:
LOOKBOOK PHOTO CREDIT: JAMES EMMERMAN
VENUE: JUNIPER DESIGN GROUP
HAIR: UBERLISS BY RUTGER
MAKEUP: MICHELLE WEBB MAKEUP
TIGHTS: LES BELLES
SHOE SPONSOR: VIONIC

Caroline Zimbalist’s Biomaterial World