For Denise Fócil, the “perfect leather jacket” was never just an item, it was a symbol. A garment that makes you feel like you can take on anything. Cool, rebellious and timeless, carrying the weight of cultural icons and the spirit of freedom. The search for this perfect jacket became the foundation for ASbyDF. Luxurious and responsible, ASbyDF looks to give back to the planet with its work, as the search for the next iconic jacket continues.

ASbyDF began with your pursuit of the “perfect leather jacket.” What did that garment represent to you, and how did it inspire the foundation of a whole brand?
The iconic black leather motorcycle jacket has always been the epitome of cool and rebellious. From the Marlon Brando to Patti Smith, it was always a symbol of cool. That symbolic garment which has stood the test of time and is synonymous with having style, and an untamed spirit, was the piece that first started ASbyDF. It is the backbone of my collection and the person I design for.

How does your cultural perspective shape the way you approach fashion?
My cultural perspective is at the heart of everything I design. Growing up in Los Angeles but being born in Ecuador, my Latin roots mixed with my American upbringing shape how I see clothes. I’ve always seen fashion as a way to bridge identities and tell stories. This duality allows me to create pieces that are versatile, empowering, and globally relevant. My cultural influences give me a unique lens. Being Latina and American, I love a powerful, but still feminine woman. Embracing curves but also embracing a strong blazer when she feels like it.

What is the biggest misconception about recycled materials, especially leather?
I think the biggest questions I get from people is that in order to be “eco conscious” it should be faux leather. When in fact, faux leather is not biodegradable, it’s plastic and the furthest thing from beingsustainable. Trying to use up materials we already have, and creating as little waste as possible is the goal at the moment, while we continue to push forward for better solutions for the future.

What difficulties have you faced when finding ways to create glamorous pieces that align with your sustainable goals?
I have faced a lot of difficulties. The fashion industry is not as advanced as we need it to be in creating sustainable material options, so sourcing better alternatives has been the biggest challenge (just finding better options is really difficult!). Choosing a more sustainable material usually also involves higher costs. The road to trying to make garments with the planet in mind has been full of roadblocks. One of my biggest hopes is that the fashion industry evolves to a place where designers are only offered sustainable options.

ASbyDF’s partnership with Ocean Conservancy ties fashion directly to environmental action. How important is it for you that your work makes a measurable impact that will cause real change?
With ASbyDF, I have the perfect opportunity to do what I love (creating beautiful pieces that empower women) and also do something good. It’s important that the legacy of my brand extends beyond just creating beautiful pieces, that we actually help clean up oceans, protect endangered marine life, we contribute every day to a better planet for generations to come. I feel honored to be able to give back with the work that I do.

When women wear ASbyDF what do you want them to feel?
Powerful. Invincible.

What does the “perfect leather jacket” look like, and feel to you? Do you think you have reached your goal in creating it?
I don’t think I have reached my goal. Each season I want to challenge myself on what I did the season before. I am always ready for the next iconic jacket. One thing that I can say is consistent, is that “the perfect leather jacket” has to be timeless, and has to be THAT piece that makes you feel like you can take anything on.

Other than leather, what other planet friendly fabrics are your favorites to use in your designs?
I love working with as many natural fibers as I can. Viscose in particular, is a material that I love working with, the way it drapes, the way it feels.

What are your future plans for ASbyDF?
My dream is to be able to make supple, luxurious leather garments that are entirely made from plants, not from animals at all. The technology exists but it’s very limited still and not yet commercially viable, but we will get there. I am not giving up on that!

Interview by Sabine Obermoller, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Daniel López, Art Director, PhotoBook Magazine

ASbyDF, Beyond Cool