HARLEEN KAUR, Ensures Innovative Ethical Practices & Silhouettes that Embrace South Asian Tradition

Images courtesy of Harleen Kaur

Where tradition collides with innovation, HARLEEN KAUR is redefining what it means to dress between worlds. Born from a personal search for traditional wedding attire that wouldn’t sacrifice individuality, the brand stands at the intersection of heritage and modern design, creating a space for identity and belonging. With innovative ethical practices and silhouettes that embrace South Asian tradition and global influences, HARLEEN KAUR isn’t just creating clothes.

Images courtesy of Harleen Kaur

Your brand was born from a personal search for vibrant, culturally rooted clothing for your brother’s wedding. Looking back, how did that experience shape the vision and values of HARLEEN KAUR today?
That search really opened my eyes to how limited the options were for South Asians looking for clothing that felt fresh, modern, and reflective of our identities today. Everything either felt overly traditional or just disconnected from the unique culture I grew up with–being American, Indian and Thai, while also being surrounded by all the different cultures of my friends. It made me want to create a brand where people could celebrate their heritage in a way that felt modern but still authentic. It was also really important to produce ethically and as sustainably as possible, which is why we’ve always produced everything here in NYC.

Your designs merge traditional South Asian silhouettes with more modern styles. How do you balance preserving cultural heritage with creating pieces that resonate with today’s generation?
I try to keep every design rooted in the traditions—the silhouettes, the craftsmanship, the symbolism—but I reinterpret them through a modern lens. That might mean sharper tailoring, unexpected fabrics, unique silhouettes or just styling that feels more current. It’s more about evolution, not replacement. I want someone to wear our pieces and feel both connected to their heritage and completely themselves in the present.

From French tweeds to hand-beaded tulle from India, your textiles have their own cultural stories. How do you decide which fabrics to work with for each collection?
It’s always a mix of beauty, sustainability, and functionality. I wish every fabric we used could be fully sustainable, but the reality is that it’s extremely difficult—and often expensive—when it comes to fabrics that shine, like sequins or metallic yarns. I try to aim for a balance, choosing textiles that not only look and feel beautiful, but are made into garments that people want to keep in their closets for years to come. Whenever possible, I source from countries with a rich history of producing that particular fabric, or I look for materials that bring an unexpected twist to the collection. I also consider how a fabric will move, drape, and photograph—because a lehenga in tweed tells a completely different story than one in silk.

Harleen Kaur on the far left
Images courtesy of Harleen Kaur

Sustainability and ethical production are central to your brand, from OEKO-TEX® certified fabrics to seed-embedded notes. Which sustainable innovations are you most proud of introducing to your collections? Are there any sustainable practices you would consider implementing in the future?
I’m really proud that we’ve been able to incorporate fabrics like EcoVero, REACH, recycled and OEKO-TEX® certified where possible, especially with our printed cottons and satins. We’ve also incorporated some recycled sequins and linings into the collection as well. The seed-embedded notes are definitely a favorite because they create a tangible connection between our customers and the idea of growth and regeneration, and it’s even more fun that they’re wildflowers since my collections are always very floral-heavy. For our upcoming collection, I’m especially excited about exploring 3D printed fabrics—offering a new innovative alternative to traditional beadwork, but with a lighter environmental footprint. We’re also testing some new recycled beads and sequins! I think in terms of the future, there are a lot of new exciting technologies that could make our production process more efficient—particularly for custom garment measurements—so we can reduce production time, waste and costs while still delivering a perfect fit.

Your collections often speak to those navigating multiple cultural identities themselves. What does it mean to you to design for a generation that doesn’t want to fit into just one box?
It’s incredibly personal. I grew up in a space where I often felt I had to pick whether to be “American” or “South Asian.” From the clothing I wore, to the art I created, to the friend groups I hung out with. But so many of us are a blend, and as I grew older, I realized that I wanted to embrace that. Designing for that in-between space means creating garments that are as diverse as the people who wear them.

What challenges have you experienced when trying to create collections that align with your mission?
I think one of the biggest challenges has been cost. Producing ethically in small batches in New York City while sourcing higher quality and sustainable fabrics isn’t the cheapest route—but I really feel like it’s the right one. We also haven’t had a lot of capital to play around with when it comes to marketing. It’s pushed me though to be even more creative in our design process to make sure each piece is worth that investment, and each customer is happy enough that they tell friends and family. Another challenge is that sustainable or ethically made fabrics that truly deliver the vibrancy, shine, drape, and texture we want—especially for occasion wear—can be limited or extremely hard to source. Sometimes the materials that align with our mission simply don’t exist yet, which is why we’re always experimenting and pushing for innovation.

Images courtesy of Harleen Kaur

Can you share a standout moment or reaction from New York Bridal Fashion Week? How will that experience stick with you?
One of our looks being featured in Vogue’s roundup of “Standout Looks from Bridal Fashion Week” was a huge moment, along with the feature Teen Vogue did on our brand about making space for Trans and Gender Expansive Sikhs through Fashion. I grew up reading both of those magazines religiously, so it was a dream come true. On a deeper note, though, the feedback I received from so many people after the show was that they were blown away—not because of the clothes alone, but because they saw their culture represented in a way that they hadn’t seen before and during Bridal Fashion Week where you typically just see white wedding dresses. Knowing my work resonates on a deeper, emotional level with so many people makes all the hardships and challenges of running a small business (and doing everything from design, to accounting, to shipping and logistics sometimes) feel so worth it.

What does the process of creating bridal pieces look like? Where do you find inspiration?
I’ve never been someone who can pull inspiration from just one source, like we’re often taught to do in design school. For me, it's always a mix of so many things which I think is reflective of all the cultures I was exposed to growing up. Inspiration comes from everywhere: fabrics, history books, old family photographs, architecture, art, new technology, even street style. It’s in blending these diverse influences that each bridal piece becomes a unique story, one that I always try to keep modern but still rooted in culture.

Images courtesy of Harleen Kaur

Your collections are designed to be gender-fluid and inclusive. What role do you think versatile designs play in expanding conversations about identity and tradition?
Versatile, gender-fluid designs open the door for people to engage with tradition on their own terms. We still create pieces that align with typical gender norms, but we also encourage everyone to wear what makes them feel comfortable, which is what we tried to convey in our show, but also in the content we create for social media and our website. We also often design custom pieces for those who have a different vision of what they want. I think that kind of freedom and affirmation from a brand can be powerful, especially for younger generations who want to see themselves reflected in cultural fashion without limits or labels.

How has your perception of culture changed since creating the brand in 2017?
I’ve realized culture isn’t as rigid or static. It shifts, and it grows with us. I’ve learned to celebrate a more fluid concept of culture and heritage, rather than try to define it too narrowly. We’re really defining a new culture that’s unique to our generation.

Can you tell us what the future of HARLEEN KAUR holds?
We’re leaning even deeper into innovation—bridging technology, sustainability, and design in ways that haven’t been done in fashion, let alone in South Asian fashion, before. From experimenting with 3D-printed embellishments, to expanding our made-to-order capabilities, and continuing to push representation in luxury spaces where our community has been underrepresented, my goal is to build something that’s not only sustainable and ethical, but that also evolves into a true lifestyle brand—bringing the HARLEEN KAUR vision into products and spaces beyond fashion.

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