Paris Haute Couture Week 2023 Review
Feeling fatigued by a fashion calendar that seems never-ending? Well, I’d grab a coffee if I were you because we’re about to unpack all of this year’s Haute Couture Week deliciousness, which took place in Paris between July 3 and July 6. For those who are unfamiliar, ready-to-wear collections are designed for the masses whereas haute couture is for the choice few. Since designers aren’t as concerned with making sales, they have much more creative freedom in the artistic process of haute couture. And it delightfully shows.
Back-to-back presentations during a three-day period certainly make for an overwhelming Instagram feed, so let’s take a moment to reflect on some of this year’s Fall/Winter 2022 - 2023 standouts.
Maison Valentino
Think drama. Paying homage to Valentino’s history since 1959, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli doesn’t leave out a single feather or rose petal in his retelling. The collection comprised 102 looks, each a testament to Piccioli’s mastery of color. From classic Valentino red to splashes of neon green and lush pink, the wide spectrum of bright hues meant that there was never a dull moment on the runway.
Ironically, the most impressive ensemble on display was a pair of jeans and a white shirt worn by Kaia Gerber. Only they weren’t really jeans. They were silk pants embroidered with micro beads dyed 80 different shades of indigo to resemble denim. If you ask me, it looks like Piccioli is starting a revolution with maximalist minimalism.
Fendi
Like most haute couture shows, Fendi’s Fall 2023 collection was all about the details. Specifically, it was about the debut of its high jewelry collection, Fendi Triptych. Designed by artistic director Delfina Delettrez Fendi, the line of necklaces, rings, and earrings was abstracted in understated, Grecian gowns of emerald, ruby, and black diamond hues.
Choosing to focus on draping techniques, creative director Kim Jones yielded contemporary silhouettes that drew the body and jewelry closer together rather than apart. This was no small feat, but Jones impresses us yet again.
Christian Dior
At the heart of Dior’s Autumn/Winter 2023 haute couture presentation is the tree of life. According to Ukrainian folklore, the tree of life connects all realms (the underworld, heaven, and earth). To draw on this continuity, Maria Grazia Chiuri designed the collection together with Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko, whose work invokes the imagination to bring mythologies and other-worldly beauty to life. Dior accomplishes this by reimagining its classic silhouettes with exceptional embroideries and paintings of botanical motifs.
Viktor & Rolf
Co-founders Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren never cease to shift conventions in fashion, especially through humor. For their Fall/Winter 2023 collection, it’s all about bathing suits (forget the pile of leaves—dip in the pool, anyone?) and bold texts which broadcast messages like “I wish you well,” “Dream,” and “No.”
I personally fell in love with every single look. Exaggerated proportions meet tuxedo and bow details to ultimately serve us romanticism with a side of attitude. Yes, it’s possible.
Chanel
What better way to celebrate haute couture’s Parisian roots than to elevate French-girl style? Taking its signature tweed and little black dresses to the next level, Chanel’s creative director Virginie Viard presented a line of layered ensembles featuring flower and fruit sequin motifs.
As a whole, the collection was remarkably wearable—setting an example for how to transition seamlessly between seasons. After all, just because temperatures are dipping doesn’t mean we have to give up the sweet tastes and smells of warmer days.
Schiaparelli
Taking to the house’s tradition, Schiaparelli’s creative director Daniel Roseberry pulled inspiration from an array of artists for this collection. While sculptor Jack Whitten’s mosaic pieces are channeled into a stretch cardigan and skirt set, painter Lucian Freud’s brushstrokes are transferred onto a tubular dress. The process behind these garments were likely laborious, but it ultimately doesn’t show because the final product exudes a confidence that puts the impossible within reach.
Article by Meyme Nakash, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Alexa Dyer, Graphic Designer, PhotoBook Magazine
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