AISTĖ HONG’s SS26 collection “Shapeshifter” represents women and the different forms one would gain from reminiscing on the past. Not something that was never there, but revealing what has been there the entire time. Allowing transformation to be expressed through clothing that is sensual, sculpture and modern. Aiste Hong delves into internal evolution, and how emotions around growing up impacted the creation of this collection.

I’ve heard that you like to draw inspiration from traditions. Was any of that applied to this collection?
Not directly, although my very first collection was inspired by a Lithuanian folk tale. I think a sense of heritage is always present in my work, just not in a literal way. I draw a lot from memories and the feelings they evoke. Many of those come from my upbringing in Lithuania, a country surrounded by a lot of nature and a strong sense of craft. Growing up there made me very sensitive to sustainability, to being respectful of materials and the environment, which is why we’re so passionate about exploring new and innovative materials. At the same time, coming from a humble background taught me to be resourceful, inventive,and hands-on. We carry that spirit into every collection, experimenting with textures, combining unexpected materials, and approaching design with curiosity and craft. For me, it always goes back to emotion, the memories, the feelings, and the woman I’m designing for: confident, grounded, and ever-evolving.

Regarding the couture gown, is there any significance to the hand-pleated horn?
Yes, the horn became a central symbol in the collection. It represents that balance between exposing and protecting, strength and softness. I wanted it to feel like a natural extension of the woman herself, something that both shields and reveals. There’s a tension in that duality that really speaks to how I see feminine power: it doesn’t need to shout to be strong. This gown was also very special to us because it’s our first couture piece — our first step into the world of couture. It pushed us technically and creatively in new ways. The pleating was done by machine for precision, but the structure was shaped, sewn, and fluted entirely by hand over many months. It required patience and an almost meditative attention to detail. When I look at it now, it feels like a moment of growth for the brand, a piece that represents confidence, craftsmanship, and transformation. It’s about the inner strength women carry, something powerful, but still deeply feminine.

I like the idea of this collection designed for a woman who is constantly evolving. Could you take us through the process of how you came up with that, and the shapeshifter idea?
The Shapeshifter concept began with the woman herself, her internal evolution. I was thinking about how identity is never fixed: it shifts, adapts, expands. We’re constantly becoming new versions of ourselves, and I wanted to express that visually through movement, texture, and silhouette. I explored the balance between structure and fluidity, like tailoring that feels sculptural yet alive. I was drawn to fabrics and techniques that could physically express change,pleating, layering, transparency, embellishment and things that could morph and catch light differently with each movement. The idea of “shapeshifting” is about freedom and the ability to change and yet still remain completely yourself.

How do you ensure that your designs align with your company’s image and values?
Everything we create has to feel empowering. Our brand is built on the idea of quiet power, clothes that make a woman feel grounded, strong, and present. I’m very involved in every detail: the fit, the lines, the way a piece moves with the body. I ask myself whether it evokes that same feeling of confidence and inner poise that defines the brand. Even when we experiment, it must still connect emotionally to that purpose.

Congratulations on your first couture gown. Did you already have a feeling that you wanted to debut a couture gown with this collection?
Yes, it felt like the right moment. Shapeshifter already carried such a strong emotional and sculptural energy that creating a couture piece felt like the natural culmination of that idea. I wanted to challenge myself to translate emotion into pure craftsmanship, no shortcuts, no compromise. It’s something I’ve dreamed of doing since the beginning, and this collection felt mature enough to hold it.

Did you encounter any hardships along the way?
Absolutely. This collection was technically demanding, from developing complex patterns to sculpting the horn form and testing unconventional materials. It was months of trial and error. There were days that felt endless, when nothing quite worked the way it should. But those challenges are part of the process; they push you deeper into the work and refine your instincts.

Did you experience any euphoric moments when completing this collection?
Yes, the first time I saw the couture gown fully finished. It was almost emotional. We’d been working on it for months, over 62 yards of fabric used, endless adjustments, so many technical challenges along the way. There were moments when it honestly felt overwhelming. So much time, precision, and problem-solving went into bringing it to life. But when it was finally complete, it felt like it had its own presence, almost like a living, breathing thing. The horn gave it a sculptural tension, as if it was holding its own power. The first time seeing it on a model exactly as we imagined was incredibly rewarding. After everything we went through, it felt like euphoria, the kind that comes when you stay true to your idea no matter how hard it gets.

You’ve spoken about sustainability and the search for innovative materials. For this collection, did you find any? What is the reality of that — is it difficult to find innovative materials?
It’s very difficult. True innovation in sustainable luxury fabrics is still quite limited, and it takes time to find materials that are both environmentally responsible and visually compelling. We really tried this season, but what we envisioned for Shapeshifter was so complex and elaborate that it became a challenge, especially as a young brand without the same level of resources as larger fashion houses. In the end, we decided to hold off and revisit those ideas in future collections. Sustainability is something we care about deeply, but we want to approach it in a way that feels honest and long-term, not just symbolic. It’s a process and we’re committed to getting it right, even if it takestime.

You started your brand in 2021. Does your brand feel different now then it did before?
We officially launched in September 2024 during New York Fashion Week, and it’s been truly incredible to see how much has happened in such a short time. Since the launch, the brand has been featured in Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, Marie Claire, L’Officiel, CR Fashion Book and Forbes among others, our pieces were worn by Cynthia Nixon, Julia Fox, and Leslie Bibb; and most recently, we collaborated with Lalique Maison d’Artiste, where we presented our Shapeshifter collection. These milestones have allowed the brand to establish a stronger presence and clearer point of view within the industry. The foundation, however, remains the same, creating clothing that embodies confidence, and feminine power. The vision has become clearer and more focused with a deeper understanding of our identity, direction and where the brand is going.

Article by Delanie Okocha, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Daniel López, Art Director, PhotoBook Magazine
*Images courtesy of AISTĖ HONG

Aiste Hong SS26 collection: The Quiet Feeling Of Emotional Evolution