Harlem Fashion Week: Social Advancement With Style
Tucked away in upper Manhattan, the neighborhood of Harlem boasts a vibrant community of Black designers and creatives. Established in 2016 by mother-daughter duo Tandra Birkett and Yvonne Jewnell, Harlem Fashion Week (HFW) highlight the talents of many designers of color. Birkett and Jewnell’s creation of HFW was motivated by a hope to bring more to fashion, expanding beyond what is typically seen on the New York Fashion Week (NYFW) runways. As co-owners of the brand Yvonne Jewnell New York LLC, both Birkett and Jewnell had a clear picture of how the industry worked and saw a lack of culture within many of the current NYFW trends. Not only does HFW bring the culture and talent of these Black creatives into the industry, but it also helps to bring the public of upper Manhattan into fashion. Hosting the runway shows directly in Harlem engages a community that may not otherwise attend NYFW runway shows, thus increasing the accessibility of the fashion industry.
HFW highlights the talents of emerging designers as well as gives them a chance to gain confidence in a supportive and uplifting environment. The importance of this event is evident as the show returned in September for its ninth season following a break due to the Coronavirus pandemic. HFW functions not only as a display of talent, but also as a social exposition. This most recent season addressed the Black Lives Matter (BLM) movement, a prominent social movement with a goal of “build[ing] local power to intervene in violence inflicted on Black communities by the state and vigilantes” (blacklivesmatter.com). The BLM movement gained global notability following the murder of George Floyd by officer Derek Chauvin in May of 2020. The death sparked many to action, as protests ensued throughout the nation. However, the oppression of the Black community has gone far beyond Floyd’s death, even in recent years with the unjust deaths of many others like Elijah McClain. BLM and HFW both have a goal of uplifting Black designers and creatives past these layers of oppression, therefore the teaming of these two organizations is extremely fitting.
Season 9’s show, held at The Adam Clayton Powell building, was a whirlwind weekend of Black excellence. The COVID-safe event kicked off on September 3rd with a Black Lives Matter Fashion Exhibition judged by Lydia T. Blanco, Gliteratie, Jelanie and Joyous Pierce in the Kente Royale Gallery. The following day turned the focus towards business, as industry professionals teamed up with keynote speaker Princess Jenkins during The Business of Fashion Symposium. Founders Birkett and Jewnell made appearances at all events, before closing the weekend with the official HFW runway show, held September 5th. The night began with an awards ceremony honoring Nikoa Evans-Hendricks (Executive Director, Harlem Park to Park), Chivona Renée Newsome (Co-Founder, Black Lives Matter, Greater NY), and Dionne Williams (Producer, Emerge Fashion Show and Principal, D. Williams Public Relations) three women who have done extensive work within the community. Following the awards, three tiers of both emerging and current designers presented throughout the night highlighting collections for Fall 2021. Looks from Yves Luc, Hirari Strong, Hennaflower Couture, IFLYUNIVERSE, House of Vaughn, and more grazed the runway.
Given the current climate of social injustice towards Black people, as well as the disastrous effects on the fashion industry from the Coronavirus Pandemic, the promotion of these up-and-coming Black fashion designers is of extreme importance. Black designers’ contributions to fashion date back in history, a fact that many overlook. Hoping to celebrate these contributions, the New York Public Library (NYPL) has curated an exhibition commemorating the 55th anniversary of the Harlem Institute of Fashion (HIF), which opened following HFW on September 30th. Showing Out: Fashion in Harlem will use costume, paper, film, and various media to chronicle the opportunities that the HIF has helped give to Black designers since its founding in 1966. Through classes, shows, and exhibitions, HIF is a vital resource for the advancement of fashion within Harlem’s community. HIF’s focus on social movements, including the Civil Rights Movement and Malcom X’s Black Power Movement, worked to advocate for Black prominence and opportunity within fashion, much like Birkett and Jewnell’s work with HFW. HIF and HFW have both provided a space for Black creatives to prosper and gain both opportunity and recognition. This upcoming NYPL exhibits the advancements of social justice in fashion, taking a viewer through how far we have come, and how far we still must go.
Article by Katherine Harbold, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Lekha Samala, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine
