Phoebe Philo. Photo by Charlotte Hadden for *The New York Times* via Nytimes.com

Phoebe Philo is a British designer who recently launched a second collection of clothing and accessories, dubbed Edit 2 in her brand’s jargon. This comes on the heels of a highly anticipated and equally controversial first release after a four-year hiatus from the fashion industry. Through her legendary stint at Celine, she established a new code for feminine dressing—one that was sophisticated and intellectual, yet unabashedly sexy. Despite the designer stepping away from the industry for several years, her aesthetic has remained relevant and desirable. The success of similar brands, such as The Row and Bottega Veneta, in the wake of Philo’s hiatus acts as both a testament to and a perpetuation of the prolific designer’s legacy.

Phoebe Philo for Céline. Photo by Stephane Cardinale-Corbis/Getty Images via Harpersbazaar.com

The first edit of Philo’s eponymous brand was released in October 2023, and included a product range spanning separates, outerwear, jewelry, footwear and accessories. Despite concerns over what many claimed to be exorbitant prices (the average bag sold for about $5,000 while on the upper end, coats sold for $25,000), the collection was virtually sold out within hours. What is particularly notable about this accomplishment was that it was achieved entirely online, sans advertising or fashion shows, and truly served as proof of Philo’s cachet. She eschews the hype and fanfare customary of today’s releases, having little individual online presence, further mythologizing the designer, and by extension, the brand.

Phoebe Philo First Edit. Photo courtesy PP Ltd. via Vogue.com

Phoebe Philo Second Edit. Photo by Phoebephilo.com via Thefashionspot.com

The second edit of her brand is a seamless extension of her previous collection, proving that the designer is staying true to her intention of creating .” As usual, the pieces are imbued with her signature: a marked simplicity punctuated by a crisp, chic sensibility. Among the second edit’s standout pieces is the quirky yet refined pillow scarf, which has drawn (not unjustifiably) comparisons to a neck brace.

Phoebe Philo Pillow Scarf. Photo via Yahoo.com

Less controversial, but no less eye-catching, is a pair of show-stopping fringed mules, which capture Philo’s trademark combination of elegance and irreverence. The impeccable draping and distinctive silhouette make Philo’s scarf top a versatile wardrobe staple.

Phoebe Philo High Tassel Mule. Photo via Phoebephilo.com

On the sporty, yet sophisticated side of things, Philo offers worsted wool BMX trousers that boast athletic paneling and a fluid drape. Her penchant for sharp, clean lines is evident in her Peak sunglasses, available in the classic colorways of black and tortoiseshell.

Phoebe Philo Scarf Top. Photo via Phoebephilo.com

Phoebe Philo Peak Sunglasses. Photo via Phoebephilo.com

Following the release of Edit 2, Philo, in a rare and much talked-about interview with Vanessa Friedman of The New York Times, discussed her return to fashion and why she felt the need to leave in the first place. Stepping away from Celine was essential for her in gaining a better understanding of her own identity outside of her work in fashion. She soon realized that fashion work formed a major part of her identity; however, she wanted to return to the industry on her own terms. She sought greater involvement in ad campaigns, merchandising and store design, which would typically be out of the question as a creative director of a pre-existing fashion house. Hence, her brand was born.

Phoebe Philo BMX Trousers. Photo via Phoebephilo.com

She does not subscribe to the usual fashion schedule of presenting work in seasons, preferring to call each collection an “edit,” which is further divided into “deliveries.” (Delivery 1 of Edit 2 is currently on sale, while Delivery 2 is set to be released at the end of March.) This system, as well as the brand’s declaration that its supply of products is deliberately intended to be less than the demand, is viewed by many as a strategic move to drum up rapid sales. However, Philo states that her aim was to avoid overproduction and to foster a more gradual, thoughtful approach to wardrobe-building within her customer base.

Talking to Friedman, Philo addressed the hot topic of her brand’s high prices. “The intention, really, is that the pieces stick around for a while,” said Philo. “They have to be made well, and they have to be considered. And that tends to come at a price point.”

In a fashion landscape often marked by fleeting trends and rapid turnover, Edit 2 reaffirms her unwavering commitment to timeless elegance and thoughtful design. With her deliberate approach to production and steadfast refusal to adhere to traditional fashion calendars, she challenges the status quo, offering a vision of fashion that transcends seasons and speaks to a discerning clientele. As her brand continues to captivate audiences and redefine modern elegance, Philo's legacy remains as vibrant and relevant as ever.

Article by Ren Wilson, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Nicolas Harris, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine

PHILO-sophy: Inside Phoebe Philo’s Second Edit