It Was a Mistake Leaving New York Wearing a Coat
It was a mistake leaving New York wearing a coat. Even with the 40-degree drizzle, I should have not worn the coat because nothing could have prepared me for the heat once I arrived in Accra, Ghana. As I walked through Kotoka International Airport, the 93-degree swelter phased no one as I saw people to my left and my right reuniting with moms, dads, and others who you could tell from their gaping mouths and wide eyes that this was their first time. I knew that when the time came to leave Ghana, they would be just as moved, as completely emotionally altered as I would. More importantly, they would have learned as many lessons as I would.
On the way to the bus, a troupe of young performers playing the drums and dancing welcomed my program’s cohort. They pulled students toward the center, encouraging us to join them in their dance. I cursed myself for wearing my oversized puffer. Their smiles truly enamored me as did the movements of their hands and the beats of their drums. I so badly wanted to participate but in the heat my coat was suffocating me. This led me to my first lesson, which was to dress accordingly for anything so you can participate in everything. In Ghana, bright colors and bold prints are a must, accompanied by flowing and breathable fabrics to combat the heat. Every foot walked in sandals adorned in glimmering gold or intricate weaving. For the locals, a fan is an accessory and should be treated as such, coming in blue, purple, red, yellow, orange, and floral print.
A second lesson is to live in the now. Ghanaians have a reputation for being hospitable and laid back. This emphasis on leisure and hospitality came through in many instances from the time our tour guides provided me with ice-cold water and plantain chips to keep us from fainting to the countless late nights club hopping throughout the city. In my time at these bars and clubs, filling up my camera roll with selfies to commemorate the moment, I realized I and the American students I came with were the only ones doing so. We were treating this like our own amusement park to have a photoshoot for bragging rights. For Ghanaians, relaxation was an art form not to be done with any essence of performativity, but for the sake of true connection with the ones you care about.
The third lesson is going to Ghana is the best thing for any and every Black American. While in Ghana, it was a huge priority to discuss the importance of Pan-Africanism, the movement with the purpose of bringing people of African descent back to the continent. Many of the activities included a ceremony to get our “day name” and an opportunity to visit a historical sight in Assin Manso known as The Last Bath. This is a river in which slaves were given their last bath before being taken to the slave castles at Cape Coast. For the Black students, this was a cathartic and emotional experience, especially after an eternity of not knowing where they come from and having to conform to Western standards.
The word is out. European vacations are out and Ghana is cementing itself on the “must-do” traveling map. But it’s not all about beaches, nightclubs, and souvenirs to bring back. It’s about the experiences that you open up yourself to, the lengths you will go to challenge what you thought you always knew, and to unlearn what you previously learned.
Ary Russell in Ghana
Article + Photos by Ary Russell, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Alexa Dyer, Graphic Designer, PhotoBook Magazine
RELATED STORIES
