How Schiaparelli Went From a Sleeping Beauty to a Sensation
Sep 2021: Adele in Schiaparelli
(Photographed by Raven Varona)
If you were on any social media app these past few weeks your feed was most likely flooded with iconic moments from Schiaparelli’s Spring 2023 Haute Couture show. From Kylie Jenner debuting Schiaparelli’s jaw-dropping lion dress before it hit the runway to Doja Cat sitting front row covered in red Swarovski crystals from head to toe, Schiaparelli’s show was one for the history books.
Kylie Jenner at Schiaparelli’s Spring 2023 Haute Couture show
(Credit: Jacopo Raule/Getty Images)
Schiaparelli is certainly a one-of-a-kind brand, not just because of its surreal and eccentric designs, but also because of its unique history. Founded in 1927 by Italian fashion designer, Elsa Schiaparelli, Maison Schiaparelli had an undeniably successful impact on fashion but ultimately closed in 1954 and wasn’t revived until almost 60 years later. So how did the couture house go from being a “sleeping beauty” to being one of the most in-demand brands in fashion?
In 1927, Elsa Schiaparelli designed her trompe-l’oiel sweater in Paris. This sweater became one of her most successful designs and was the catalyst for the creation of Maison Schiaparelli. The same year, Schiaparelli launched “Pour le Sport”,a collection focusing on sportswear and daytime wear. It eventually expanded to bathing suits, dresses, and skiwear.
Elsa Schiaparelli’s trompe-l’oiel sweater, 1927
(Source: Archives Schiaparelli)
In the 1930s, Elsa Schiaparelli started to create evening wear. Schiaparelli also famously put out her “Shocking” fragrance while launching “Shocking Pink,” her new signature color. During this decade, Elsa Schiaparelli collaborated with artists like Salvador Dalí, Elsa Triolet, Meret Oppenheim, and Man Ray to create surrealist accessories. Her partnership with Salvador Dalí also birthed some of the brand’s most iconic designs, like the “shoe” hat and lobster dress.
Gala Dalí wearing the “shoe” hat, 1938
(Photographed by Andrew Maillet)
Schiaparelli Lobster Dress, 1937
(Credit: Cecil Beaton/Getty Images)
Elsa Schiaparelli was known for her playful and artistic creations like oversized jewelry and “claw” gloves, which the brand references today (Ex: Beyoncé’s look at the the 63rd Grammy Awards). With the impact of Christian Dior’s New Look and Coco Chanel’s comeback, Elsa Schiaparelli ultimately decided to close down Maison Schiaparelli in 1954 and focused on writing her autobiography, “Shocking Life.” On November 13, 1973, Elsa Schiaparelli passed away in her sleep at age 83 at her home in Paris.
Schiaparelli “claw” gloves, 1936
(Credit: Eric Emo / Palais Galliera / Roger-Viollet)
Maison Schiaparelli re-opened at Hôtel de Fontpertuis in Paris in 2012. 60 years after its closure, Schiaparelli debuted its new Haute Couture collection in 2014 at Paris Fashion Week. In 2019, Daniel Roseberry was appointed as the new Artistic Director of Schiaparelli. Roseberry’s Schiaparelli has taken the industry by storm. He has successfully revived the brand by paying homage to Elsa Schiaparelli’s iconic innovations and her passion for surrealism. The Fall/Winter 2022-2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection featured a recreation of Elsa Schiaparelli’s first trompe l’oeil sweaters and a modern version of the “shoe” hat.
Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2022-2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2022-2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Today, Schiaparelli is adored by celebrities like Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, Bella Hadid, and Adele. Keep reading for a timeline of Schiaparelli’s most recent, iconic designs:
January 2021: Lady Gaga at the 59th Presidential Inauguration
(Credit: Win McNamee/Getty Images)
March 2021: Beyoncé at the 63rd Grammy Awards
(Credit: Kevin Winter/Getty Images)
July 2021: Bella Hadid at the Cannes Film Festival
(Credit: Andreas Rentz/Getty Images)
March 2022: Dua Lipa for “Sweetest Pie” Music Video
(Photographed by Lauren Leekley)
May 2022: Doja Cat for the Billboard Music Awards
(Photographed by Jacob Webster)
September 2022: Kylie Jenner for Paris Fashion Week
(Photographed by Blair Cadwell)
January 2023: Ariana Grande for RuPaul’s Drag Race
(Photographed by Albert Sanchez and Pedro Zalba)
January 2023: Rihanna at the 2023 Golden Globes
(Credit: Christopher Polk/NBC/Getty Images)
Article by Taylor Houston, Assistant Fashion & Beauty Editor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Alexa Dyer, Graphic Design Coordinator, PhotoBook Magazine
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