Alexander McQueen Challenges A New Take On Apparel Fabric

An image captures a grand runway interior set with tiered seating and statues.

Courtesy of Alexander McQueen

British Tony award-winning artist Tom Scutt converged classic and modern design in his latest installation for the Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2025 Collection. The Beaux-Arts finds a new definition of grandeur architecture with steel-plate paths and a metallic runway.

A portrait captures a runway model wearing a white embellished two-piece ensemble with lace and fringe details.

Courtesy of Alexander McQueen


The collection poses a juxtaposition between traditional and contemporary forms of British suiting. Suiting takes on a new form with sharper, structured tailoring but is still recognizable with the T-Bar. 

A portrait of a runway model wearing a structured white cropped jacket paired with black trousers.

Courtesy of Alexander McQueen

“The banshee is rooted in the history of McQueen, but it’s also a story that I grew up with, so feels deeply personal to me – something I remember my mother talking about in Ireland, describing the cry of this solitary, foreboding figure. For me, she has come to represent something real and potent now. The idea of someone who is feeling and forthright; someone who can be seen as a guiding force.” – Sean McGirr, Creative Director

McQueen utilizes an ivory, silver, grey, and black color palette, accentuated with previews of yellow and orange hues.

A model struts down a foggy runway wearing a tailored dark navy blazer dress with a ruffled white collar.

Courtesy of Alexander McQueen

Mcqueen redesigns materials and fabric used in this collection. Pieces feature white silk chiffon, silk creponne, and wool gabardine. 

A model walks down a foggy runway styled in a bright orange high-neck lace dress.

Courtesy of Alexander McQueen

Lace comes in black, ivory, and orange. Some pieces feature cobweb lace, while others implement scallop-edged heritage lace. Silk is featured in grey, yellow, and ivory hues. The silk is embroidered, hand-shredded, and ruffled, but also comes in many different forms. These forms include “double silk crepe, silk crepe de chine, silk creponne, silk cotton faille, and silk tulle.” Wool gabardine is shown in navy, black, and ivory hues with wool mohair and tobacco checks. Leather pieces either have brown calf leather or black nappa leather.

A model walks down a foggy runway wearing a sheer floor-length gown covered in silver fringe and beading.

Courtesy of Alexander McQueen

Accessory pieces all have silhouettes, whether they are curved or sculpted. Appreciating their history, McQueen accentuated many accessory items with signature British looks, such as brogue details on platform shoes. 

A portrait captures a runway model walking down a foggy runway wearing a leather jacket and matching skirt over a pleated light-colored top.

Courtesy of Alexander McQueen

McQueen’s Spring / Summer 2025 women’s collection is new, refreshing, and unconventional, especially in their use of materials and fabrics. 

An image captures a runway set in a hall filled with people.

Courtesy of Alexander McQueen


Article by Anna Yim, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Robin Chou, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine