MELKE Presentation

Melke, a New York City based brand designed by Emma Gage, presented their Fall/Winter 2022 collection on February 15th. Gage, whose Midwestern roots influenced the brand’s name, makes gender fluid sustainable clothing and takes inspiration from nature. This collection, titled “Falcon’s Fame,” took its inspiration from Gage’s trip to Ashford Castle in Galway, Ireland. For the first time on the official NYFW calendar, an intimate presentation at Veranda in SoHo was the perfect setting to showcase the ethereal collection.

Person wearing black dress with blue feathers and platform boots in front of a bookshelf.

Person wearing a blue and red pleated skirt with a striped white and yellow t-shirt and black boots in front of a bookshelf.

Ashford Castle’s inspiration is woven into every aspect of this collection. On her trip, Gage experienced the reality of a working Irish estate, from horseback riding to falconry and sheep herding. Even in moments of rest, the architecture of the castle and the greenery surrounding it left its mark on the pieces. A green, cotton fleece skirt with an asymmetric hem was embellished with fringe tassels made of naturally fallen horsehair. The blue-green feathers adorning a turtleneck and peeking out of the neckline of a plaid dress were all naturally fallen from emus as well.

Person wearing a green knit cutout dress on top of a green turtle neck and orange pants on a wooden staircase.

Models wears emerald green pants and a vest in front of a book case.

But perhaps the best marriage of natural inspiration and natural materials came from the Forest Fern Vest, an openwork knit vest with leaf motifs and beading reminiscent of a rain shower. When speaking to Gage about the craftsmanship that went into this piece, she said, “[The vest] is all individual laser cut ferns which is all from cruelty-free wool and they’re laser cut here in New York and we hand-applique them on. The beads come from an old chandelier and they’re glass. So even when I’m using beads, I want them to be glass.” Melke shows that sustainable clothing doesn’t have to be boring or plain. Gage mentions, “working with local manufactures especially in regard to details because when things are sustainable the fabric is already more expensive, so you don’t really get to have a material that has beading on it, or lace, or embroidery.” One of the most popular pieces from her previous collection, a knit sweater with embroidered fish appliques, was updated with sheep to match this season’s Irish inspiration. Both of these quirky sweaters, along with all other knitwear pieces from the brand, are made in India, in partnership with Knit One, Change One, an organization that allows women to become financially independent. And even though every material she uses is sustainable, Gage still pushes to make MELKE 100% plastic free, including recycled plastic. “All of the trims are made with metal because to me that’s a better alternative than plastic. I would love to find a biodegradable zipper.”

Person wearing a black patterned button down and a black and white patterned pants with yellow heels on a wooden staircase.

Models wears a tan embroidered turtle neck sweater standing on the steps.

I asked Gage about her choice to attend Marist College, just a few hours outside of the fashion capital of New York City, and how that influenced her business. “In regard to sustainability, the school didn’t have a sustainability class when I went [there]. I believe they have a class now and they started a club when I was there but they were incredibly supportive.” She continues, “what drew me there is that they cared about the community as well, at least in the fashion department, and I said right before my senior year, I want to try and make sure everything is fair trade. They brought me to Premiere Vision and set up appointments for me to talk to fabric suppliers. So that was a huge inspiration in knowing that it’s possible, even when you’re young, to kind of reach out and learn from these people.”

Gage’s stance on sustainability is realistic, bettering herself and her brand at every chance she gets while acknowledging it’s an ongoing effort. Maintaining the transparency of where everything comes from is important to her to avoid greenwashing, a way of marketing your products more sustainable than they actually are. “I,” she explained, “try to live by the ideals of once I know better, I do better and I’m still trying to learn and grow with everything. This is only my third collection and you learn more every single time.”

Person wearing a silver skirt with a blue feather sweater and yellow heels on a wooden staircase.

Two models, on the right, model wearing graphic pand and jacket set and on the right a model wearing a matching strapless dress on a wooden staircase and plants.

Website: https://www.melkenyc.com
Instagram: MELKE