“Not Your Mother’s Tiffany” and the Homogenization of Luxury Branding
It is odd to see an ad campaign diss its own customer, but as the posters of Tiffany and Co.’s new campaign seem to suggest, doing so may be worth the risk in order to capture the attention of the Gen Z market. Across major cities in the U.S., posters have gone up featuring the controversial slogan, “Not Your Mother’s Tiffany,” paired with models in the campaign images looking young, casual, and, most importantly, cool. The shift in image and accompanying slogan presents Tiffany as aware of what it’s typically thought of as high-class, traditional, and classic and aims to distance itself from that perception, through the ostracization and exclusion of its existing customer base. Such a move has sparked controversy on the internet, as people react to the slogan with outrage over the brand treating its established older clientele like they’re something to be embarrassed of. In truth, Tiffany is not unique in its desire to appeal to a younger audience with its recent rebrand, as the company joins a number of other luxury houses that have updated their look over the past decade. But in the wording of their slogan, Tiffany and Co. is the most explicit.
It has been interesting to see over the past few years exactly what these luxury brands believe are aesthetic qualities that will appeal to a Gen Z audience. In looking at the rebranded logos of established luxury houses, it seems that the perception of what is young, fresh, and modern takes on a uniform image. Designer brands like Burberry, Balmain, Berluti, and Balenciaga have abandoned the logos that they’ve been using for decades in favor of a standard, sans serif font that looks sleeker and more minimalistic. Yves Saint Laurent famously dropped the first part of its name in 2012 when Heidi Slimane took over the house. And in the branding of “Not Your Mother’s Tiffany,” the luxury jeweler is following in the footsteps of these other designers with the bold and high-impact font. In bringing the look and feel of their brands into the contemporary era, designers and creative directors seem to be willing to risk abandoning their traditionalism and heritage sewn into the fabric of their brand identity to attract what they think a younger customer base will want. The short-term impact of doing so is clear, it attracts a whirlwind of press and some backlash. But the long-term effects have yet to be determined.
As a member of Gen Z, I’m not convinced that these rebrands are the smartest move, because of the rapid nature in which trends ebb and flow amongst my peers. Thinking back to five or six years ago, I remember when the ultimate house design aesthetic mirrored the feel of these new logos. Sleek and minimalist bathed in black, white, and neutral tones, almost feeling sterile. Flash forward to 2021, and this interior design style is now mocked for its lifelessness and branded “cheugy” by internet critics across various platforms. Now, interior design profiles that receive acclaim are grounded in eclectic pieces, bright colors, and character. And it's not just in interior design, as the impact of TikTok on the fashion industry cannot be overstated enough in the introduction - and swift destruction - of what are known as “micro-trends.” Now, taste and styles are not evolving season-to-season, but in some cases, week-to-week. Writer Ella Faust describes the cyclical behavior as seeing an item rise in popularity until it reaches a mainstream peak, then being discarded as it is deemed “tacky and overused.” How long until these new logos, meant to feel “modern,” end up looking dated?
The lightning-speed manner in which trends operate in the social media age may have been underestimated by these luxury marketing experts, who spend countless hours and hundreds of thousands of dollars in their rebranding efforts. But for these companies, the race to acquire Gen Z’s estimated $143 billion in spending power may have either clouded their judgement or made the major decision to rebrand worth the risk.
Last week, I posted a TikTok on Photobook’s account covering Tiffany's rebrand, and reaction from Gen Z was overwhelmingly negative. Top comments read, “The old logos were so much classier,” “They should have kept [their old] aesthetic, it’s so iconic and trying to market towards Gen Z feels icky,” and “They end up losing their authenticity when they try to pander to youth.” There may be a disconnect brewing between what marketing executives think Gen Z wants, and what Gen Z actually wants. Who knows, perhaps the name brand alone will continue to attract young customers regardless of the branding. What is certain, though, is that the push towards the future is following a formulaic and uniform path.
Article by Scott Higgins, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Maelle Eugene, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine